Dresses Have Been One Of The Most Commonly Used Clothing Since Ancient Times
Nov 26, 2020
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In ancient times, both men and women of the Han people wore long hair and a deep garment connected to their lower skirts. The tunics of ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and the Mesopotamia all had the basic shape of a dress, which can be worn by both men and women, only in specific details. There is a difference.
In Europe, before the First World War, the mainstream of women's clothing had always been dresses, which were used as formal clothing for various ceremonial occasions. After the First World War, due to the increasing participation of women in social work, the types of clothes are no longer limited to dresses, but still serve as an important garment. As for dresses, most of them still appear in the form of dresses. With the development of the times, there are more and more types of dresses.
In the pre-Qin period, people generally wore deep clothes, which can be regarded as a variation of dresses.
In 1973, a batch of 11 complete cotton robes with various colors of gauze and silk fabrics were unearthed at Mawangdui No. 1 Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan. Among them, there were 4 straight cotton robes (that is, deep clothes). Pieces. The deep clothing is one of the clothing styles made by the Han Dynasty and the Qin Dynasty. In fact, the top and the lower skirt are stitched together. It is a bit similar to today's dresses. Because of the deep quilt, it is named "Shen Yi". Here I want to add that the ancient lower skirt is different from the skirt worn by women today. It is a bit like the apron of later generations. Of course, pants are still worn inside the skirt. This kind of trousers has no crotch or waist, only two trousers with belts around the waist, and the private parts are all covered by skirts.
The evolution of deep clothing has gone through two processes: first, the use of "quyue". Before the advent of deep clothes, people's clothes were divided into upper and lower sections, namely upper and lower garments. The clothes, the skirt and the trousers inside each perform their duties, and the skirt and the skirt (bottom) are not related. Later, because the apron was removed from the deep clothing, the lower body was not easy to deal with: if there are slits on both sides of the hem, it will inevitably spring up; if the slits are not open, it will inevitably affect walking. In order to solve this contradiction, the ancients came up with a "curvy" method to cover up, that is, to extend the skirt of the clothes to form a triangle, wrap it around the back when wearing it, and tie it with a belt, which looks like a dovetail from the back. In this way, it is easy to walk, and there is no risk of exposure. When people's underwear is perfected, it develops into a "straight line". Compared with traditional upper garments and lower garments, this kind of deep garment is much easier to wear and more suitable. Therefore, in the pre-Qin period, it was the home clothes of princes, doctors, and scholars, and it was also the dress of ordinary people.
Crimson yarn printed with color continuation and straight quilted cotton deep clothing was unearthed from Mawangdui No. 1 Han Tomb in Changsha. The length is 130 cm, the sleeve length is 236 cm, the sleeve width is 41 cm, the cuff width is 30 cm, the waist width is 48 cm, the hem width is 57 cm, the collar is 29 cm, and the hem is 38 cm. Its clothing styles include cross collar, right gusset, beard sleeves, straight hem, sleeves and hem are inlaid with large wide edges. One major feature of this dress is that it has a wide gusset, that is, the placket (called "gusset" in ancient times) is inlaid at the lower part of the gusset from under the armpit, straight through and flush with the hem, like a continuation of the right gusset, hence the name "continuation".衽". This continuation of the gusset wide-edge straight deep clothing is a popular style in Changsha in the Western Han Dynasty, but it maintains the previous straight gusset form, which was adapted to the "curved gusset" form just introduced at the time. It can wrap the large placket behind the body, and then tighten it with a belt, which can provide warmth in winter.
The fabric of this deep garment is transparent yarn (a kind of light plain silk fabric with square holes), the fineness of the warp and weft is 10.2 denier, and the warp is very fine. Because of its close warp and weft density, the yarn has a denser texture.
The dyeing process of this dress is also outstanding. The fabric has magenta as the background color. This crimson red is dyed by madder after mordanting, and it is still very beautiful today. Printing and painting on the magenta gauze floor, the ancients called the printing process. The printed patterns are the deformation patterns of vines, which are made of vermilion, pink white, silver gray, gold, brown gray, black and other pigments through a combination of printing and painting to produce flowers, leaves, buds and buds. Finally, use pink and white to outline the clouds and water patterns and dots, the flowers are distinct, gorgeous and colorful.
When the garment is worn, the inner gusset is concealed under the left armpit, the outer gusset is folded to the right side, and the bottom hem is flared. Lay your hands flat, the big sleeves are drooping, and the clothes pattern shows the appearance of today's bat sleeves. Before the Middle Ages. Most skirts in the West are dresses. After the 16th century, the tops and skirts gradually separated. After the First World War, the mainstream of women's clothing was still dresses. The types of dresses have become diverse. From the middle of the 16th century to the beginning of the 20th century, Western boys usually wore robes or dresses when they were young.

